Sunday 17 November 2013

Day 4 - Trinidad City to Rancho Hatuey (82km)

TIRED, TIRED, TIRED

When the alarm went off at 6:00 this morning, my eyes felt as though they were glued together.  Despite the air-con unit that sounded like a small jet plane, I had slept like a log and was struggling to drag myself awake.  Luckily (?) for me, there was no hot water, which I didn't realise until I was under the shower - so I was soon wide awake, showered and dressed.

Once our bags were on the coach we joined the maelstrom of female cyclists all attempting to eat as much breakfast as possible as quickly as possible, and then headed to our room for a quiet moment - this was our time to compose our thoughts, as Gillian said.  A valuable 15 minutes every morning!

Our day today began with a coach transfer into Trinidad, where we were treated to a walking tour of the city as it is the best preserved colonial city in America and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Plaza Major, Trinidad - view from inside one of the old colonial houses


We were then dropped of at the top of the Valle de los Ingenios (Vally of the Sugar Mills), which was the source of the wealth that helped build Trinidad.  The grand colonial houses were the homes of the Spanish families that made their fortunes in sugar over a golden period of about 100 years from the mid 18th century.  There are no mills there now, but it is a breathtaking part of the country, and an inspiring spot to start our cycle.

Valle de los Ingenios (above and below)

Our starting point at the top of the valley

As I sat on my bike, I was made painfully aware that this was my fourth consecutive day in the saddle.  The Rapha shorts had a lot of work to do today!  We started gently and it wasn't long before I started to wake up and get into my stride.  Gillian pressed on ahead for a bit, so I had a stretch of cycling on my own, and took everything in in silence.  I passed a farmer in a cart laden impossibly high with hay, pulled by a mule who was digging in too - he was heading up the hill with his load.  I wish I had stopped for a photo, but I was heading down at a decent speed, and didn't get chance to stop.  Certainly wasn't going to cycle back up the hill to chase my great shot.

We re-grouped at lunch time for a packed lunch, which we ate in a house which seemed to double up as a bar and restaurant.  For us it provided some welcome shade, and we were all grateful for this wonderful Cuban hospitality.

Outside our lunch spot

Gillian cooling off inside

After lunch we carried on in the heat, passing through a lot of farmland.  People were waiting in groups at the side of the road to be picked up in huge open-topped Russian trucks and driven to work, all standing in the back.  My crowded train to Manchester now seems luxurious - I promise myself that I will stop grumbling about it.

Pressing on through the valley - a watch tower can be seen on the left in the distance.  This was so the plantation owner could keep an eye on the slaves working in the sugar cane fields


This afternoon we had a refreshment break in a small cafe that sold ice-cream.  I didn't have to be asked twice - strawberry cornetto - you are all mine!  Heaven - particularly when washed down with ice-cold lemonade (at least I would burn off the inevitable sugar rush that was to follow).

Gillian with enough energy left for a joke

We had been warned that the last stretch of the day was a bit more undulating and could be into a strong headwind, which turned out to be the case.  It was pretty tough for the last few miles, but we got into a line with a group of other girls and worked at a decent pace to keep each other going, taking turns at the front.  We got our heads down and focussed on the cycling and really enjoyed it.

Beautiful cemetery we passed by in the mountains

We stopped just outside Sancti Spiritus so that the group could gather back together to cycle to the hotel as it was along a busy main road.  Our room was a pleasant surprise - a little bungalow set in park-like grounds.  It even came with a complimentary frog, that Gillian managed to catch in an ashtray while I hovered, pathetically, by the door!



Chaos caused in order to catch frog

Frog captured!


After dinner the hotel put on a show on an outside patio, which was like nothing I have ever seen.  First a salsa dancer resplendent in bustle and elaborate head-dress, followed by a singer who performed Guantanamera and My Way, amongst other songs.  Then a magician who seemed shy and awkward as he went through his routine, but then disappeared and re-appeared dressed as Michael Jackson to perform, karaoke style, to Thriller; before changing for a Stevie Wonder number; then Celine Dion and a fourth lady I couldn't identify as by then I was in tears, almost on the floor.  He had hilarious fake boobs and the white MJ socks remained on throughout the routine with his gold lame bikini for the finale.  Priceless.  We were giggling all the way back to our bungalow!

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